In der Atacama-Wüste

Im Norden von Chile liegt die Atacama-Wüste (Desierto de Atacama). Sie gilt als die trockenste Wüste der Welt. Sie ist, wie alle Wüsten der Welt, in erster Linie ein grausamer, lebensfeindlicher Ort. Während an anderen Orten ein Mensch bis zu 72 Stunden ohne Wasser überleben kann, sind es in der Atacama-Wüste nur knapp 18 Stunden. Gleichzeitig ist sie von ungemeiner Schönheit – was sich natürlich leicht sagen lässt, wenn man in einem Auto sitzt und genügend Wasser zur Hand hat.

1000 Kilometer endlose Leere

Eine Möglichkeit, recht viel von der Wüste zu sehen und gleichzeitig ein Ziel zu haben, ist eine Reise nach San Pedro de Atacama. Obwohl es die Möglichkeit gibt, nach Calama zu fliegen, habe ich mich für die 22-stündige Busfahrt von Santiago de Chile aus entschieden. Dem ein oder anderen mag dies als unzumutbar lang vorkommen – ich bin der Meinung, dass gewisse Erlebsnisse einfach Zeit und Geduld benötigen. Darüber hinaus gehören die chilenischen Reisebusse zu den komfortabelsten der Welt und wenn man nicht gerade Jurassic World im Bordentertainment verfolgen will, dann bietet sich hier die Gelegenheit, diese eindrucksvolle Leere zu bewundern und auf sich wirken zu lassen: Die Strecke führt ab Copiapó kilometerweit kerzengeradeaus und links und rechts erstreckt sich über eine karge Landschaft, die alle ca. 50 Kilometer mal von einer Tankstelle unterbrochen wird. Zeit zum Staunen, Zeit zum Träumen, Zeit zum Nachsinnen.

Mein Gott – es ist voller Sterne!

Sternenhimmel von San Pedro de Atacama
Blick in den Sternenhimmel von San Pedro de Atacama

Die Trockenheit der Atacama-Wüste ist zwar einerseits ein Fluch, auf der anderen Seite ein Segen. Durch die geringe Zivilisation ist sie eine der besten Orte der Welt für bodengestützte astronomische Beobachtungen – man könnte auch einfach sagen: zum Sterne anschauen. Nur an ca. 20 – 30 Tagen im Jahr verhindern tatsächlich Wolken den Blick ins All. Ansonsten ist durch die weit entfernte industrielle Luftverschmutzung und durch fehlende „Lichtverschmutzung“ durch große Städte der Blick frei auf 8000 – 9000 Sterne und damit ein quasi weißer Himmel. Oder um es mit David Bowman zu sagen: „Mein Gott – Es ist voller Sterne!“ Zum Vergleich: Selbst an dunklen Orten in Deutschland, wie z. B. In Brandenburg oder im südlichen Mecklenburg-Vorpommern kann man bei besten Verhältnissen etwa 3000 – 4000 Sterne beobachten. In Größenordnung Städten wie Berlin, Hamburg oder Frankfurt am Main sind es teilweise nur bis zu 150.

Nicht umsonsten stehen die größten Teleskope der Welt in der Atacama-Wüste. So zum Beispiel das in internationaler Kooperation von der EU, den USA, Kanada, Japan und Chile gemeinsam betriebene Atacama Large Milimeter/submilimeter Array (ALMA) in der Nähe von San Pedro de Atacama und viele hundert kleinerer Sternbeobachtungsstationen.

Einerseits also ein Ort, an dem auch ich einfach nur gestaunt habe. Der Blick von hier dürfte so das Beste sein, was auf der Erde zu bekommen ist. Ohne es als unmöglich anzusehen – aber auch ich habe mir bislang meine Chancen, einmal als Kosmonaut ins Weltall zu reisen bis dato tendenziell als eher gering eingeschätzt. In San Pedro de Atacama gibt es mehrere Angebote einer Excursión Astronómico, die etwas entfernt in die Wüste führt und in zwei Stunden gemeinsamer Teleskopbeobachtungen einen traumhaften Blick in den Himmel ermöglicht.

Auf dem Mond

Ein Soll – also muss, wenn man kann – ist ein Besuch im Mondtal (Valle de la luna). Und der Name ist tatsächlich nicht um ein Werbegag der örtlichen Stadtmarketing GmbH. Das ca. 17 km von San Pedro de Atacama entfernte Tal ist teilweise von Salz überzogen, so dass es durch seine weiße Farbe tatsächlich aussieht, wie auf dem Mond. In der Nacht wirkt es als Kontrast zum schwarzen Himmel naturgemäß noch stärker. Einzig der teilweise recht starke Wind trübt das eigene Mond-Erlebnis ein wenig.

Valle de la luna
Die berühmte Formation Las tres Marias im Valle de la luna.

Erreichbar ist das Tal durch gefühlte 52 verschiedene Touranbieter von San Pedro aus – es gibt also wirklich keinen Grund, mit dem eigenen Auto anreisen zu müssen. Der Abschluss des Tages bildet der gemeinsam betrachtete Sonnenuntergang über der trockensten Wüste der Welt.

Key-Facts Travelling

Busreise: ab Santiago de Chile mehrmals tägliche Verbindung nach San Pedro de Atacama. Gesellschaften: Turbus, Ciktours (neuere Busse mit WiFi & USB-Lademöglichkeit).
Dauer: 22-24 Std.
Kosten: 55.000 CLP (~76 EUR) mit Turbus, 42.000 CLP (~58 EUR) mit Ciktours, jeweils pro Person und im für diese Strecke doch empfehlenswerten Salon Cama-Klasse. Frühzeitig buchen, dadurch in der Regel günstiger realisierbar.

Flugreise: ab Santiago de Chile (SCL) bis Calama (CJC).
Gesellschaften: LATAM, Sky Airlines
Dauer: ca. 2 Std.
Kosten: abhängig von Nachfrage und Vorbuchungsfrist

Von Calama aus gibt es Busverbindungen nach San Pedro de Atacama.
Gesellschaften: Turbus
Dauer: ca. 1,5 Std.
Kosten: mit Turbus ab 3.200 CLP (~4,50 EUR) in der für diese kurze Reise absolut ausreichenden Semi Cama-Klasse

Unterkunft: Hotels und Hostels (siehe San Pedro de Atacama)

609 Gedanken zu „In der Atacama-Wüste&8220;

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